1 center-cut beef tenderloin section, about 8 inches long and 2 1/2 pounds, trimmed of fat and silver skin
4 tablespoons butter or olive oil
2 pounds cremini mushrooms, finely chopped, by hand or in food processor
1 pound store-bought all-butter puff pastry, thawed in refrigerator if frozen
1 egg, beaten with a pinch of salt
SEASON tenderloin liberally with salt and pepper and reserve at room temperature while you prepare the other ingredients.
MELT butter or oil over high heat in a large sauté pan. When butter froths or oil ripples, add a large handful of mushrooms and toss and stir for about 1 minute. Continue adding mushrooms, a handful at a time, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until any liquid they release evaporates and they are nicely browned and dry. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool.
PREHEAT oven to 425 degrees. If it has a convection feature, turn it on.
ROLL the pastry out into a rectangle just large enough to enclose the tenderloin completely.
SPRINKLE a sheet pan with cold water, and transfer the pastry to the pan. Spread cooled mushrooms over the pastry to within 1 inch from all edges. Place tenderloin near one long edge of the pastry, and then roll up the meat in the pastry to enclose it completely. Make sure the wrapped tenderloin is seam side down, and then seal the open ends by folding them under. Place the wrapped tenderloin on the pan. Using a sharp knife, cut a series of diagonal slashes, about 1/2 inch apart, along the top of the roll, being careful not to cut into the meat. Brush the pastry with the egg wash.
BAKE for about 40 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the tenderloin reads 120 degrees for rare or 125 degrees for medium-rare. (The temperature will rise 5 degrees as the roast rests.)
TRANSFER to a platter, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes before serving. Using a sharp knife, cut into 1-inch-thick slices to serve.
Yield: 8 servings
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